Polki vs Kundan — Understanding the Difference
Two royal jewellery traditions that look similar but are made very differently. Here's how to tell them apart.
A single Kundan necklace passes through the hands of at least five master artisans before it is complete. This division of labour — each craftsperson specialising in one aspect — is what makes traditional Indian jewellery so extraordinarily detailed.
Step 1 — The Goldsmith (Sonar)
The process begins with the Sonar, who creates the basic framework of the piece using 24-karat gold. This skeleton structure — called the ghaat — defines the final shape of the necklace.
Step 2 — The Stone Setter (Kundansaz)
Uncut diamonds or coloured stones are pressed into the soft gold framework. The Kundansaz uses a small tool to carefully work the gold around each stone, securing it permanently without any adhesive.
Step 3 — The Enameller (Meenarkar)
The reverse side of the piece is given to the Meenarkar, who fills the back with intricate Meenakari enamel work. This hidden artwork is a mark of quality — the finest Kundan pieces are as beautiful on the back as the front.
Step 4 — The Stringer (Patwa)
If the necklace features pearls or beads, the Patwa expertly strings them, ensuring equal spacing and perfect tension in the strand.
Step 5 — The Polisher (Gharai)
The final artisan polishes the gold framework to a perfect lustre and does a final quality check before the piece leaves the workshop.
